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The Definitive Guide to Retinoids

Retinoids are the most and group of ingredients in . They range from gentle serums, creams or gels to potent prescription products. The reason retinoids are so popular is of their broad range of actions including acne, fading and softening the fine lines and of ageing skin. The only catch is that there are so many types of and they vary enormously in . In fact, choosing the wrong one for your skin is all too common and the reason people either see no or give up due to . This guide explains what retinoids are, how they work and their uses. We the different types of retinoids in terms of strength and what they treat. Learn how to choose them and .

What are Retinoids?

are a family of compounds . They all do broadly the same job in the skin, but they differ in and how many steps it takes them to work. This affects their effectiveness, side effect and whether you need a . It helps to split into two groups:

One thing to clarify is that all too often when people say "retinoid" they often mean the prescription kind. When they say "retinol" they mean the milder over-the-counter kind. However, this isn’t actually the case. Retinol is just the basic form of A and is the most commonly over-the-counter. All are of A. So everything else that isn’t Retinol is a retinoid.

How Do Retinoids Work for Skin?

Every ultimately works by into the same thing; retinoic acid (aka ). This is the only form the skin can actually use directly. acid binds to in your skin cells and changes how they behave. It speeds up , stimulates collagen production and helps unclog pores. This is what makes the whole family across acne, and ageing.

The difference the comes down to how far each one sits from that active form. The weaker, retinoids have to be converted by the skin in a series of steps before they can work. Each step loses some along the way, which is why a retinyl ester (three steps away) is far weaker than retinaldehyde (one step away). Prescription skips the queue entirely, it is already retinoic OnabotulinumtoxinAAbobotulinumtoxinAIncobotulinumtoxinAPrabotulinumtoxinALetibotulinumtoxinARimabotulinumtoxinBHyaluronic Acid FillersCalcium Hydroxylapatite FillersPoly-L-lactic Acid FillersPolymethylmethacrylate FillersAutologous Fat GraftingForehead Lines TreatmentGlabellar Frown Lines TreatmentCrow's Feet TreatmentBunny Lines TreatmentChemical Brow LiftLip FlipGummy Smile CorrectionMasseter ReductionJaw SlimmingDimpled Chin SmoothingCobblestone Chin SmoothingNefertiti Neck LiftMicro-BotoxMesotoxHyperhidrosis TreatmentChronic Migraine ReliefBruxism TreatmentTMJ TreatmentCervical Dystonia TreatmentNeck Spasm TreatmentBlepharospasm TreatmentLip AugmentationLip ContouringCheekbone EnhancementTear Trough FillersNasolabial Fold SofteningMarionette Line FillersLiquid RhinoplastyNon-Surgical Nose JobJawline ContouringJawline DefinitionChin AugmentationTemple VolumisingHand RejuvenationAcne Scar Subcision Filling. and tazarotene are synthetic that also bind the without needing conversion. This is the single most useful thing to understand about retinoids. The fewer steps, the more potent and the retinoid. However, it also makes it more likely to the skin.

The Retinoid Strength Ladder

The retinoid runs in a fixed order. Retinyl esters to retinol, retinol to retinaldehyde and to acid. potency tracks so with how close each is to retinoic acid, the family forms a clear ladder from to . The tiers (from lowest to highest) are:

is also a newer prescription retinoid which sits somehwere adapalene and . It is the only topical retinoid licensed for acne use on the body. Sitting this ladder is (the active in Accutane and Roaccutane). It is a prescription oral reserved for severe or acne. Isotretinoin works throughout the body rather than just on the skin and has a number of serious possible side . It requires close throughout .

What Do Retinoids Treat?

The reason retinoids are so widely prescribed is they of skin cells which building, texture and pores. This mechanism of action can help address several of the most common skin concerns at once. Retinoids are useful for:

At City Skin Clinic, retinoids (and in particular) are among the we most often. They form the of many of our custom , , and treatments.

Which Retinoid is Right for You?

With so many options, the right depends on three things. These are your skin’s sensitivity, the concern you are treating and your goals. As a general approach these are our top tips for which retinoid to start on:

The most common is to the strongest . A you can actually tolerate and use consistently will always beat a one that the skin. This can cause skin barrier damage, post-inflammatory and even drive you to give up.

How to Use Retinoids & the Retinisation Period

Retinoids reward patience and consistency and they punish impatience with . one you use, the are the same. Start on the lowest strength that makes sense for your skin, apply it only two or three times a week at first, and build up the as your skin adjusts. Use a pea-sized amount for the whole face at night, and always follow with a daily . This is because all retinoids make the skin more to UV damage.

The first few weeks are where most people struggle. As the retinoid speeds up cell turnover, it can trigger a period of dryness, redness, flaking and sometimes a temporary increase in breakouts. This period is called retinisation and the breakout part is . These are common things people can encounter and not a sign that the treatment is failing. This period usually within 4 to 6 weeks, and it is worth how to tell . your with a good moisturiser through this phase makes a real difference, and some people prefer to to buffer it and reduce irritation. If you are still struggling with adapting after a couple of months, our post on covers the usual .

Also, a word on combining retinoids with other actives. Retinoids pair well with some ingredients and clash with others, so it is worth before layering them with acids or other .

Retinoid Side Effects & Safety

are powerful, and most people experience some side effects, especially early on. The good news is that the common ones are manageable and tend to ease as the skin builds tolerance. The side effects are:

There is also a persistent myth worth addressing. The strength of a does not determine its results so much as your ability to use it consistently. This is also why retinol was rather than an ban.

Who Cannot Use Retinoids?

Generally speaking, suit most people with proper and approriate use. However, as with anything in life, they’re not for everyone. Below are some of the where you should either avoid or be more cautious:

How to Get Prescription Retinoids in the UK

retinoids like esters, retinol and retinaldehyde are freely available in cosmetic products throughout the UK. However, prescription retinoids are a different matter. You can only get them through a doctor or other who has your skin and decided they are safe and appropriate for you. Any or clinic selling prescription retinoids without a consultation is not a legitimate source. Historically this meant an dermatology appointment. Now you can also through a number of which offer online consultations and treatment if appropriate.

At City Skin Clinic, we believe skincare should be personal. We use topical retinoids like other actives where appropriate following an online with one of our doctors. They will review your skin, and to create a bespoke plan suitable for your needs. You can read more about our treatments for , , and , or to start your journey to great skin today.

This is for general information and does not advice. are prescription-only medicines and should be used only under the supervision of a qualified . Always read the patient information and report any suspected side effects to the MHRA via the Yellow Card scheme.

What is the difference between a retinoid and a retinol?

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Can I use a retinoid with vitamin C or acids?

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